All men are created equal, apparently. Well, here’s the thing, we’re not. Up until around 10 years ago men’s fashion was a catch all industry divided into the hallowed three main sections of “small” “medium” and “large”. While women caught on early that dressing well was about shape as much as size, we men have been dreadfully slow on the uptake, so much so that the vast majority of us (myself included) are either shocked to learn of this phenomenon or are still ignorant of it. For those who fall into the latter category, wake up, this is your moment. Over the next four articles the mystery surrounding the five male body shapes and how to dress them will be lifted. Starting with:
Type 1: The Inverted Triangle
As the name suggests, men who fall into this category do indeed resemble an upside-down triangle. That is to say they have:
Broad shoulders and a broad chest
A very narrow waist and narrow hips
Well developed arm muscles, maybe even bulky
A significantly heavier top half
The appearance of disappearing almost to a point at the waist.
The key to dressing well if you’re an Inverted Triangle is balance, always think balance! Whether that be your torso and legs, your shoulders and waist etc. While the I.T is an enviable body shape and quite easy to dress, always keep these tips in mind:
DO:
Use wider leg jeans: to create balance, although skinny jeans are by no means off limits as long as the top half is just as tapered (and stay away from black denim, this will only serve to diminish an already small bottom half)
Use detailing: Contrast stitching on jeans draws positive attention to the hip area stopping it fading away into obscurity and makes it appear wider. If, however, you want attention drawn to enviable broad shoulders – military jackets with embellished shoulders will do wonders.
Mix it up: Wearing trousers a lighter colour than your top half adds proportion and helps achieve that all important balance. The inverse is also true. Experiment with colour every now and again.
Taper, taper, taper: Tapering is key, a v-shaped torso needs V-shaped tailoring.
Untuck your shirt: If you have a big, BIG difference in your shoulder to waist ratio you have my express permission to look scruffy. An untucked shirt will give the illusion of a more Trapezoid body shape whereas tucking in will always emphasize a super-V torso
DO NOT:
Dabble with monochrome: Most inverted triangles are, by default, slim or skinny and as such should avoid wearing all one colour like the plague. ESPECIALLY BLACK. Believe me, I did this once, caught sight of myself in the mirror, Jack Skellington was staring back at me (and I’m not even an I.T). Just don’t do it. Same goes for vertical stripes.
Go anywhere near padding or double breasted: Mostly when buying suit jackets, padding should be minimal, I can’t stress this enough, adding anymore width to your shoulders will just look comical. Double breasted suit jackets will just exaggerate how small your waist is.
Go for a “generic” cut: By “generic” I mean “boxy”. Any suits, shirts, tshirts, ANYTHING you buy has to be tapered or you’ll be left looking like you’ve raided your Dad’s wardrobe without any success.
Like I said, the I.T is a good body shape, and very easy to dress, not as easy, however as the remarkably similar and, some say, more enviable:
Type 2: The Trapezoid
Very similar to the inverted triangle body shape this shape typically will have:
Broad shoulders and a broad chest like the I.T
A top half larger than the bottom
A bigger waist, that is to say medium as opposed to narrow
A well proportioned appearance
Trapezoids, whilst sharing many similarities with the I.T are easier to dress and look more in proportion.
DO:
Basically whatever you want, this is the easiest shape to dress since you’re naturally in proportion and have nothing to balance or hide, so to speak. The one rule is, like the I.T, TAPER!
DO NOT:
Go anywhere near boxy fits: Like it I.T many Trapezoids tend to be slim, so boxy fits look awful.
That’s it. Go and knock yourselves out.
The Inverted Triangle and the Trapezoid are extremely similar, both tend to look good in the same styles and follow the same rules, the only difference being that the I.T has to work harder to balance their figure whereas for the Trapezoid, it just comes naturally.
Type 3: The Rectangle
A rectangle is basically a straight up and down shape, they will typically have:
Shoulders, waist and chest that are all the same width
The most important thing for a rectangle is to give the illusion of a trapezoid shape.
DO:
Go for padding: In the shoulders when buying suit jackets. Whereas the Trapezoid and the I.T have to avoid padding at every given opportunity. Rectangles could find it becomes their best friend in faking that sought after Trapezoid shape.
Go light: Using a light colour on your top half will always give the illusion of a broader shoulder. (See Above)
Go for the skinny jean: If you’re a skinny rectangle, you are the only body shape that actually has express permission to wear skinny jeans. Jeans that taper in at the ankle make legs and bottom halves in general appear slimmer thus emphasizing the top half in a positive way. Especially if, you guessed it, you’re wearing a light coloured T-shirt. If the skinny jean is just not for you then try a carrot fit, they have all the space of a straight fit but like the skinny taper in at the ankle, giving you that trapezoid shape.
Layer: Layer, layer, layer your top half to give it shape
Get as many pockets as you can: Especially on a suit, there is no such thing as too many pockets for a Rectangle. It will draw attention away from how straight your figure is.
DO NOT:
Untuck your shirt: Never, ever, EVER untuck your shirt if you’re a Rectangle. An untucked shirt may do wonders at emphasizing an I.T’s non-existent waist but on you it will just emphasize your straight up and down shape. ALWAYS tuck in your shirt. A tucked in shirt will emphasise even the slightest V-shape in your torso, and just look better.
Wear wide leg jeans or trousers: You’ve got the permission to wear a skinny jean, use it. A wide leg or bootcut jean will make your bottom half appear wider again and only serve to accentuate a Rectangle and maybe even give the illusion of an Upright Triangle shape. Skinny, slim or straight jeans only. Preferably in Indigo or black denim. Which brings me on to…
Go light below the waist: In the same way a light coloured top half will accentuate your shoulders, a dark bottom half will detract from your waist and legs, giving the illusion of a V shape. Put the stonewash down. Black is the new Black. The contrast with a light (and hopefully layered) top half will give you shape.
Type 4: The Triangle
Imagine if an Inverted Triangle stood on their head, that’s basically the body shape of a Triangle, just incase the name didn’t clear it up enough. They will typically:
Be bottom heavy
Have a chest narrower than their hips
Have a sloping shoulder line
For a Triangle is all about detracting from a bottom heavy frame.
DO:
Think like a Rectangle: If Rectangles need to emphasize their shoulders then Triangles should do it tenfold.
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-
- Light coloured top half
- Detailing on the shoulder
- Layering
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Are all things that rectangles can do to accentuate their shoulders, and they’re all things a Triangle must do. Taking these almost to the nth degree will give the illusion of sometimes non-existent shoulders and draw attention away from a bottom heavy frame.
Look for padding: Fake it. Any jacket with padding will be the ultimate help in bringing attention to your shoulders and giving the illusion of a more balanced shape. The vast majority of suit jackets on the market today already have some form of shoulder padding.
Look for dark denim: Anything dark is slimming. Indigo and black denim jeans will immediately make your bottom half appear thinner, bringing balance to a bottom heavy frame.
Smart casual: Suit jackets with padding are great for bulking out sloping shoulders but don’t write them off as just formal wear, wear a light grey jacket with a pair of indigo jeans and you’ll be surprised at the difference.
DO NOT:
Think outside the box: Those boxy fit suits that can be the death of other body shapes will come in handy for the Triangle. A straight body line will make your shoulders look as wide as the widest part of your torso, bringing about that all important balance.
Use flawed logic: Trying to give the impression of broad shoulders with tops with a shoulder seam longer than your actual shoulder may seem logical, but will only serve to accentuate a sloping shoulder line. In the same vein, baggy clothing will never flatter a triangle shape. No matter how logical it seems, a proper fit is of paramount importance.
Go tight: Don’t misinterpret a proper fit for a tight one, it will not pull in a heavier set torso, in fact it will exaggerate one. If the clothing pulls as you put it on, size up.
Type 5: The Oval
The Oval, just as the name (in my opinion a very harsh one, no wonder women prefer the term “apple”) suggests, will have:
An overall round appearance
A large stomach
For the Oval it’s all about toning down the stomach, whether that be by illusion or directing attention elsewhere.
DO:
Wear low rise trousers and jeans: Low rise jeans will sit on the hips as opposed to the waist. Decreasing the distance between the waistband and the crotch, making your midsection appear smaller in general and giving the illusion of a longer, slimmer body.
Wear V necks: V necks are very flattering on heavier set frames, primarily because it gives the illusion of a smaller neckline, drawing attention to the chest and decreasing that overall “round” appearance
Go for vertical stripes: They will elongate your torso and give you an all round slimmer appearance.
Monochrome: Whereas a monochrome look will make an I.T look like they are disappearing, it will make the Oval appear instantly slimmer. Only dark colours will work.
Get a good fit: Clothes too tight will make every bump stand out, too loose and they will add weight to an already bulky frame. Clothes should skim the body helping to flatter it’s shape. Always try it on.
DO NOT:
Pattern: Loud, brash patterns will (obviously) draw attention to your top half. If you must, then vertical stripes are the best pattern at an Oval’s disposal. Keep it understated.
Get a muffin top out of pride: Always make sure your trousers or jeans fit comfortably around your midsection. If your stomach protrudes over the waistband of your trousers, regardless of how much you might not want to, it’s time to size up. A muffin top elongates the torso (in a negative way) and shortens your legs.
Bulk: While it might be tempting in winter to layer up, don’t do it. This will just add more weight to your frame. Go for thin wool jumpers or if you can, cashmere. Both lightweight fabrics that will keep you warm.
Wear a short hem: In trousers and jeans the hem should be as long as possible, almost hitting the floor, this will elongate the body making it appear taller and thinner.
